1. Introduction

Habitat and Distribution, Native Continent: The coconut palm, Cocos nucifera, is a pan-tropical species, thriving in coastal and lowland areas across the globe between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn. Its exact origin is debated, but the leading theory points to the Indo-Malayan or Melanesian region (Southeast Asia and surrounding islands) as its native continent. Its natural distribution was facilitated by its buoyant, salt-tolerant seed (the coconut itself), which could drift on ocean currents for months and germinate upon washing ashore on a suitable beach.

The coconut palm, Cocos nucifera, is a pan-tropical species, thriving in coastal and lowland areas across the globe between the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn. Its exact origin is debated, but the leading theory points to the Indo-Malayan or Melanesian region (Southeast Asia and surrounding islands) as its native continent. Its natural distribution was facilitated by its buoyant, salt-tolerant seed (the coconut itself), which could drift on ocean currents for months and germinate upon washing ashore on a suitable beach.

Taxonomic Classification and Species: The 'Spicata Dwarf' is not a separate species but a specific cultivar variety of Cocos nucifera.

Synonyms: This variety is primarily known by its descriptive name. Synonyms are often variations or descriptive phrases rather than formal botanical names. These include: Spicata Coconut, Unbranched Coconut Palm, and colloquially, "freak coconut" due to its unusual flowering structure. The 'Spicata' trait can also appear in tall varieties, but the 'Spicata Dwarf' is a specific combination of the dwarf habit and the spicate inflorescence.

• This variety is primarily known by its descriptive name. Synonyms are often variations or descriptive phrases rather than formal botanical names. These include: Spicata Coconut, Unbranched Coconut Palm, and colloquially, "freak coconut" due to its unusual flowering structure. The 'Spicata' trait can also appear in tall varieties, but the 'Spicata Dwarf' is a specific combination of the dwarf habit and the spicate inflorescence.

Common Names: While the specific variety is called 'Spicata Dwarf' Coconut, it shares common names with the species, such as Coconut Palm, Coco, and Niu (in Polynesian languages). The species as a whole is often called the "Tree of Life" due to the immense utility of all its parts.

• While the specific variety is called 'Spicata Dwarf' Coconut, it shares common names with the species, such as Coconut Palm, Coco, and Niu (in Polynesian languages). The species as a whole is often called the "Tree of Life" due to the immense utility of all its parts.

Expansion of this Palm in the World: While natural dispersal established the coconut palm across the world's tropical coastlines, its global expansion was massively accelerated by human migration and trade. Austronesian peoples carried it across the Pacific and Indian Oceans. Later, European explorers and traders introduced it to the Atlantic coasts of Africa and the Americas. Today, it is cultivated in over 90 countries, with major producers including Indonesia, the Philippines, and India. The 'Spicata Dwarf', being a rare genetic mutation primarily of ornamental and scientific interest, has been spread intentionally by collectors and botanical gardens rather than for commercial agriculture.

2. Biology and Physiology

Morphology:

Trunk (Strain): As a dwarf variety, the 'Spicata Dwarf' has a significantly shorter and more slender trunk than 'Tall' types. It may reach heights of only 5-10 meters (15-33 feet) at maturity. The trunk is smoothish, grey-brown, with prominent leaf scars that are more closely spaced than on tall varieties, reflecting a slower rate of vertical growth. The base of the trunk may show some swelling.

As a dwarf variety, the 'Spicata Dwarf' has a significantly shorter and more slender trunk than 'Tall' types. It may reach heights of only 5-10 meters (15-33 feet) at maturity. The trunk is smoothish, grey-brown, with prominent leaf scars that are more closely spaced than on tall varieties, reflecting a slower rate of vertical growth. The base of the trunk may show some swelling.

Leaves: The leaves (fronds) are pinnate, meaning they have a feather-like appearance with leaflets arranged on either side of a central rachis. Fronds can still be quite large, reaching 3-4 meters (10-13 feet) in length. They are composed of 200-250 linear-lanceolate leaflets.

The leaves (fronds) are pinnate, meaning they have a feather-like appearance with leaflets arranged on either side of a central rachis. Fronds can still be quite large, reaching 3-4 meters (10-13 feet) in length. They are composed of 200-250 linear-lanceolate leaflets.

Flower Systems (Inflorescence): This is the defining characteristic of the 'Spicata' variety. A typical coconut palm has a branched inflorescence called a spadix, which emerges from a woody spathe. This spadix has a main stalk with numerous side branches (rachillae) that bear the male and female flowers. In stark contrast, the 'Spicata' mutation results in an inflorescence that is completely unbranched—a single, thick spike (a spicate spadix) that carries the flowers directly. This is a recessive genetic trait and is often associated with reduced fertility or lower fruit set compared to standard varieties.

This is the defining characteristic of the 'Spicata' variety. A typical coconut palm has a branched inflorescence called a spadix, which emerges from a woody spathe. This spadix has a main stalk with numerous side branches (rachillae) that bear the male and female flowers. In stark contrast, the 'Spicata' mutation results in an inflorescence that is completely unbranched—a single, thick spike (a spicate spadix) that carries the flowers directly. This is a recessive genetic trait and is often associated with reduced fertility or lower fruit set compared to standard varieties.

Life Cycle of Palm Trees:

Germination: A single shoot emerges from one of the three "eyes" of the coconut.

A single shoot emerges from one of the three "eyes" of the coconut.

Seedling Stage: The plant initially relies on the nutrient-rich endosperm (coconut meat and water) for up to a year. The first leaves are simple and undivided.

The plant initially relies on the nutrient-rich endosperm (coconut meat and water) for up to a year. The first leaves are simple and undivided.

Juvenile Stage: The palm begins to produce its characteristic pinnate fronds and establishes a robust root system.

The palm begins to produce its characteristic pinnate fronds and establishes a robust root system.

Maturity (Flowering): Dwarf varieties are precocious. The 'Spicata Dwarf' can begin to flower in as little as 3-5 years under ideal conditions, significantly earlier than the 6-10 years for tall types.

Dwarf varieties are precocious. The 'Spicata Dwarf' can begin to flower in as little as 3-5 years under ideal conditions, significantly earlier than the 6-10 years for tall types.

Fruiting: Following pollination (dwarf types are often self-pollinating), it takes about 10-12 months for a coconut to mature.

Following pollination (dwarf types are often self-pollinating), it takes about 10-12 months for a coconut to mature.

Senescence: The productive lifespan of a dwarf coconut is typically shorter than a tall, around 40-60 years, after which vigor and fruit production decline.

The productive lifespan of a dwarf coconut is typically shorter than a tall, around 40-60 years, after which vigor and fruit production decline.

Specific Adaptation to Different Climate Conditions: Cocos nucifera is a specialist of the warm, humid tropics. Its primary adaptations include high tolerance to saline soils and salt spray, a deep and fibrous root system to anchor it in sandy substrates, and a high requirement for sunlight, heat, and humidity. It has virtually no adaptation to cold and is intolerant of frost. Its large leaves are efficient at photosynthesis but can be damaged by strong, dry winds.

Cocos nucifera is a specialist of the warm, humid tropics. Its primary adaptations include high tolerance to saline soils and salt spray, a deep and fibrous root system to anchor it in sandy substrates, and a high requirement for sunlight, heat, and humidity. It has virtually no adaptation to cold and is intolerant of frost. Its large leaves are efficient at photosynthesis but can be damaged by strong, dry winds.

• Salt Tolerance: Buoyant, salt-resistant seed for ocean dispersal
• Heat Adaptation: Thrives in humid tropics, no cold tolerance
• Root System: Fibrous for sandy, saline soils
• Photosynthesis: Large fronds for high light efficiency
• Wind Resistance: Flexible but dry winds damage leaves
• Humidity Need: High for optimal growth

3. Reproduction and Propagation

Seed Reproduction

Seed Morphology and Diversity: The "seed" is the entire fruit, a large fibrous drupe. The outer layer (exocarp) is the smooth skin. The middle layer (mesocarp) is the fibrous husk or coir. The inner layer (endocarp) is the hard, woody shell. Inside the shell is the solid white endosperm (meat) and liquid endosperm (water). Embedded in the shell are three germination pores, or "eyes," only one of which is functional and soft.

The "seed" is the entire fruit, a large fibrous drupe. The outer layer (exocarp) is the smooth skin. The middle layer (mesocarp) is the fibrous husk or coir. The inner layer (endocarp) is the hard, woody shell. Inside the shell is the solid white endosperm (meat) and liquid endosperm (water). Embedded in the shell are three germination pores, or "eyes," only one of which is functional and soft.

Detailed Seed Collection and Viability Testing: Collect mature coconuts that have turned brown and fallen naturally from the palm. A fresh, viable nut will feel heavy for its size and will have audible water "sloshing" inside when shaken. Nuts that feel light or make no sound are likely old and dried out, with low viability.

Pre-germination Treatments:

Scarification: This is generally unnecessary and not recommended. The functional germination pore is naturally soft enough for the shoot to emerge.

This is generally unnecessary and not recommended. The functional germination pore is naturally soft enough for the shoot to emerge.

Heat Treatments: Direct heat treatment is not required. However, germination is triggered and accelerated by ambient warmth.

Direct heat treatment is not required. However, germination is triggered and accelerated by ambient warmth.

Soaking: Soaking the entire nut in warm water for 2-4 days can help to rehydrate the husk and signal to the embryo that conditions are favorable for germination.

Soaking the entire nut in warm water for 2-4 days can help to rehydrate the husk and signal to the embryo that conditions are favorable for germination.

Step-by-step Germination Techniques:

After soaking, place the coconut on its side in a well-draining, sterile medium like a mix of sand and coco coir or peat moss.

1. Bury the nut about one-third to one-half of its depth. Placing it on its side is crucial as the shoot emerges from one of the eyes and the roots from the others.
2. Maintain very high humidity. This can be achieved by placing the pot in a clear plastic bag (with a few air holes) or using a germination chamber.
3. Provide consistent, high temperatures. The optimal range is 85-95°F (29-35°C). A heat mat is highly recommended for consistent results.
4. Keep the medium moist but not waterlogged to prevent rot.

Germination Difficulty: Germination can be difficult due to the long waiting period and the strict requirement for high heat and humidity. Impatience is the biggest enemy. The viability of the nut is also a major factor.

Germination Time: This is highly variable, ranging from 1 to 6 months, and in some cases, even longer.

• Range: 1-6 months, sometimes longer
• Factors: Temperature, humidity, viability
• Patience: Required for success

Seedling Care and Early Development Stages: Once the shoot (spear leaf) emerges, ensure it gets bright, indirect light. As it grows, gradually acclimate it to more direct sunlight. Do not remove the coconut from the seedling. It serves as the primary nutrient source for the first 6-12 months. Water carefully to keep the soil moist, and ensure excellent drainage.

Once the shoot (spear leaf) emerges, ensure it gets bright, indirect light. As it grows, gradually acclimate it to more direct sunlight. Do not remove the coconut from the seedling. It serves as the primary nutrient source for the first 6-12 months. Water carefully to keep the soil moist, and ensure excellent drainage.

Advanced Germination Techniques

Hormonal Treatments: While not standard practice, soaking the nut in a weak solution of Gibberellic Acid (GA3) can sometimes help to break dormancy and speed up germination, though its effectiveness on coconuts is not as pronounced as on other seeds.

While not standard practice, soaking the nut in a weak solution of Gibberellic Acid (GA3) can sometimes help to break dormancy and speed up germination, though its effectiveness on coconuts is not as pronounced as on other seeds.

4. Cultivation Requirements

Light Requirements: Cocos nucifera is a sun-loving palm. It requires a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day for healthy growth and fruit production. For indoor cultivation, this means placing it in the sunniest south-facing window possible (in the Northern Hemisphere) or supplementing heavily with powerful, full-spectrum grow lights.

Cocos nucifera is a sun-loving palm. It requires a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day for healthy growth and fruit production. For indoor cultivation, this means placing it in the sunniest south-facing window possible (in the Northern Hemisphere) or supplementing heavily with powerful, full-spectrum grow lights.

Species-specific Light Tolerance Ranges

• Minimum: 6-8 hours direct sun
• Indoor: South window + grow lights
• Full spectrum: Essential for health

Seasonal Light Variations and Management

• Consistent full sun preferred
• Supplement in winter
• Acclimate gradually

Artificial Lighting for Indoor Cultivation

• Powerful full-spectrum
• 12-16 hour day
• High intensity needed

Temperature and Humidity Management:

Optimal Temperature: The ideal range is 75-95°F (24-35°C). Growth slows significantly below 70°F (21°C).

The ideal range is 75-95°F (24-35°C). Growth slows significantly below 70°F (21°C).

Cold Tolerance: Extremely low. The palm will show chilling injury with leaf discoloration and slowed growth at temperatures below 40°F (4°C). Frost and freezing temperatures (32°F / 0°C) are lethal.

Extremely low. The palm will show chilling injury with leaf discoloration and slowed growth at temperatures below 40°F (4°C). Frost and freezing temperatures (32°F / 0°C) are lethal.

Hardiness Zone: Strictly USDA Zones 10b-11.

Strictly USDA Zones 10b-11.

Humidity: High humidity of 60% or more is essential. In dry climates or indoors, this requires regular misting, pebble trays, or a humidifier.

High humidity of 60% or more is essential. In dry climates or indoors, this requires regular misting, pebble trays, or a humidifier.

Optimal Temperature Ranges

• Ideal: 24-35°C (75-95°F)
• Growth slow: Below 21°C (70°F)
• Chilling: Below 4°C (40°F)
• Lethal: 0°C (32°F) frost

Cold Tolerance Thresholds

• Damage: Below 4°C leaf discoloration
• Fatal: Freezing temperatures
• Zones: 10b-11 only

Hardiness Zone Maps

• USDA: 10b-11 strict
• No marginal: Frost lethal

Humidity Requirements and Modification

• Essential: 60%+
• Methods: Misting, trays, humidifier
• Indoors: Critical

Soil and Nutrition:

Ideal Soil: The most critical factor is excellent drainage. A sandy loam or a custom mix of potting soil, sand, and perlite (e.g., 1:1:1 ratio) is ideal. pH should be in the range of 5.5 to 7.0.

The most critical factor is excellent drainage. A sandy loam or a custom mix of potting soil, sand, and perlite (e.g., 1:1:1 ratio) is ideal. pH should be in the range of 5.5 to 7.0.

Nutrient Requirements: Coconuts are heavy feeders, especially of Potassium (K). They also have high requirements for Nitrogen (N), Chlorine (Cl), Sulfur (S), and micronutrients like Magnesium (Mg), Manganese (Mn), and Boron (B).

Coconuts are heavy feeders, especially of Potassium (K). They also have high requirements for Nitrogen (N), Chlorine (Cl), Sulfur (S), and micronutrients like Magnesium (Mg), Manganese (Mn), and Boron (B).

Fertilization: Use a balanced palm-specific fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio like 3-1-3, plus abundant micronutrients. Fertilize regularly during the growing season (spring and summer).

Use a balanced palm-specific fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio like 3-1-3, plus abundant micronutrients. Fertilize regularly during the growing season (spring and summer).

Deficiencies: Yellowing of older fronds can indicate Nitrogen or Potassium deficiency. "Frizzle top" (deformed, stunted new leaves) is a classic sign of Manganese deficiency.

Yellowing of older fronds can indicate Nitrogen or Potassium deficiency. "Frizzle top" (deformed, stunted new leaves) is a classic sign of Manganese deficiency.

Ideal Soil Composition and pH

• Key: Excellent drainage
• Mix: 1:1:1 soil:sand:perlite
• pH: 5.5-7.0

Nutrient Requirements Through Growth Stages

Seedlings: Light NPK monthly

Juveniles: Increase K focus

Adults: Heavy, palm-specific 3-1-3

Organic vs. Synthetic Fertilization

Organic: Compost, coir amendments

Synthetic: Balanced with micros

Micronutrient Deficiencies and Corrections

• N/K: Yellow older fronds - balance fert
• Mn: Frizzle top - Mn sulfate
• Mg/B: Spotting - targeted sprays

Water Management:

Irrigation: Water deeply and thoroughly, then allow the top few inches of soil to dry out before watering again. They need ample water but despise waterlogged soil, which leads to fatal root rot.

Water deeply and thoroughly, then allow the top few inches of soil to dry out before watering again. They need ample water but despise waterlogged soil, which leads to fatal root rot.

Drought Tolerance: Once established in the landscape, they have moderate drought tolerance but perform best with consistent moisture. Container-grown palms have very low drought tolerance.

Water Quality: They are tolerant of some salinity but perform best with fresh water. Avoid overly hard or chlorinated tap water if possible.

They are tolerant of some salinity but perform best with fresh water. Avoid overly hard or chlorinated tap water if possible.

Drainage: This cannot be overstated. The pot or planting site must have excellent drainage.

This cannot be overstated. The pot or planting site must have excellent drainage.

Irrigation Frequency and Methodology

• Deep, infrequent
• Top dry before rewater
• Ample but not wet

Drought Tolerance Assessment

• Moderate in ground
• Low in pots
• Mulch helps

Water Quality Considerations

• Some salt OK
• Fresh best
• Avoid hard/chlorine

Drainage Requirements

• Excellent essential
• Prevent rot
• Sandy mixes

5. Diseases and Pests

Common Problems in Growing: The most common problems for hobbyists are related to improper cultivation: root rot from overwatering/poor drainage, nutrient deficiencies from inadequate fertilization, and leaf burn from low humidity or sudden sun exposure.

The most common problems for hobbyists are related to improper cultivation: root rot from overwatering/poor drainage, nutrient deficiencies from inadequate fertilization, and leaf burn from low humidity or sudden sun exposure.

Identification of Diseases and Pests:

Diseases: Fungal leaf spots (often cosmetic), bud rot (often fatal, caused by fungi or bacteria in the crown), and Lethal Yellowing (a phytoplasma disease prevalent in some regions like Florida and the Caribbean, to which dwarf varieties are particularly susceptible).

Fungal leaf spots (often cosmetic), bud rot (often fatal, caused by fungi or bacteria in the crown), and Lethal Yellowing (a phytoplasma disease prevalent in some regions like Florida and the Caribbean, to which dwarf varieties are particularly susceptible).

Pests: Indoors, the primary culprits are spider mites (thriving in dry conditions), mealybugs, and scale. Outdoors, pests can include the rhinoceros beetle (bores into the crown), aphids, and various caterpillars.

Indoors, the primary culprits are spider mites (thriving in dry conditions), mealybugs, and scale. Outdoors, pests can include the rhinoceros beetle (bores into the crown), aphids, and various caterpillars.

Environmental and Chemical Protection Methods:

Environmental (Best Practice): Provide optimal growing conditions—good airflow, correct watering, and proper nutrition—to create a strong plant that can resist pests and diseases. Regular inspection is key to early detection.

Provide optimal growing conditions—good airflow, correct watering, and proper nutrition—to create a strong plant that can resist pests and diseases. Regular inspection is key to early detection.

Chemical: For common indoor pests, start with horticultural soap or neem oil. For severe infestations, systemic insecticides may be necessary. Fungicides can be used for leaf spot diseases, but improving air circulation is a better long-term solution.

For common indoor pests, start with horticultural soap or neem oil. For severe infestations, systemic insecticides may be necessary. Fungicides can be used for leaf spot diseases, but improving air circulation is a better long-term solution.

Cultural Controls:

• Optimal conditions
• Airflow, nutrition
• Regular checks

Chemical Options:

• Soap/neem first
• Systemic for severe
• Fungicides as needed

6. Indoor Palm Growing

Specific Care in Housing Conditions: Growing a coconut palm indoors long-term is extremely challenging and often temporary. It requires the brightest possible location, ideally a sunroom or atrium. A powerful grow light is almost mandatory. A humidifier is needed to combat dry indoor air. Rotate the plant regularly for even growth.

Growing a coconut palm indoors long-term is extremely challenging and often temporary. It requires the brightest possible location, ideally a sunroom or atrium. A powerful grow light is almost mandatory. A humidifier is needed to combat dry indoor air. Rotate the plant regularly for even growth.

Replanting and Wintering: Repot only when the palm is clearly root-bound, typically every 2-3 years, into a pot only slightly larger. Use a fast-draining soil mix. "Wintering" simply means providing these same conditions through the colder months when outdoor placement is not an option. Reduce watering slightly to account for slower growth but do not let it dry out completely.

Repot only when the palm is clearly root-bound, typically every 2-3 years, into a pot only slightly larger. Use a fast-draining soil mix. "Wintering" simply means providing these same conditions through the colder months when outdoor placement is not an option. Reduce watering slightly to account for slower growth but do not let it dry out completely.

Challenges:

• Light & space needs
• Humidity hard indoors
• Temporary often
• Sunroom ideal

Replanting:

• Every 2-3 years
• Slightly larger pot
• Drain mix

Winter:

• Same conditions
• Reduce water slightly
• No dry out

7. Landscape and Outdoor Cultivation

Establishment and Maintenance in Landscapes

Planting Techniques for Success: Choose a site with full sun, protected from strong winds if possible. Ensure the soil is well-draining; amend heavy clay soils with sand and organic matter. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Plant the palm so the base of the trunk (where it meets the roots) is slightly above the soil line to prevent rot. Water in thoroughly and mulch to retain moisture, keeping mulch away from the trunk base.

Choose a site with full sun, protected from strong winds if possible. Ensure the soil is well-draining; amend heavy clay soils with sand and organic matter. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Plant the palm so the base of the trunk (where it meets the roots) is slightly above the soil line to prevent rot. Water in thoroughly and mulch to retain moisture, keeping mulch away from the trunk base.

Long-term Maintenance Schedules: Fertilize 3-4 times per year during the growing season with a palm-specific fertilizer. Provide deep, regular irrigation, especially during dry spells. Prune only fronds that are completely brown and dead. Never prune yellow or green fronds, as the palm is still drawing nutrients from them. This practice, known as "hurricane cutting," weakens the palm.

Fertilize 3-4 times per year during the growing season with a palm-specific fertilizer. Provide deep, regular irrigation, especially during dry spells. Prune only fronds that are completely brown and dead. Never prune yellow or green fronds, as the palm is still drawing nutrients from them. This practice, known as "hurricane cutting," weakens the palm.

Garden Applications:

• Ornamental dwarf
• Coastal landscapes
• Botanical interest

Design:

• Full sun site
• Wind protection
• Drain amend

Planting:

• Wide hole, shallow
• Above soil base
• Mulch away trunk

Maintenance:

• Fert 3-4x/year
• Deep water
• Dead fronds only

8. Cold Climate Cultivation Strategies

Cold Hardiness: Extremely low. Cocos nucifera is one of the least cold-hardy palms commonly cultivated. It has no mechanism for surviving frost or freezes.

Hardiness Zone: Viable for in-ground cultivation only in USDA Zones 10b and 11, and even in 10b it can be damaged or killed in an unusually cold winter.

Viable for in-ground cultivation only in USDA Zones 10b and 11, and even in 10b it can be damaged or killed in an unusually cold winter.

Winter Protection: In marginal zones (e.g., a warm 10a), extensive protection is needed for cold snaps. This can involve wrapping the trunk with blankets or heat cables and covering the entire palm with a frost cloth. This is a high-effort, often unsuccessful endeavor. For all other colder zones, the only strategy is container cultivation.

In marginal zones (e.g., a warm 10a), extensive protection is needed for cold snaps. This can involve wrapping the trunk with blankets or heat cables and covering the entire palm with a frost cloth. This is a high-effort, often unsuccessful endeavor. For all other colder zones, the only strategy is container cultivation.

Winter Protection Systems and Materials: The only viable "system" for cold climates is a greenhouse or bringing the containerized palm indoors for the winter. Any attempt to winter it outdoors below Zone 10a is a significant gamble destined for failure in a typical winter.

The only viable "system" for cold climates is a greenhouse or bringing the containerized palm indoors for the winter. Any attempt to winter it outdoors below Zone 10a is a significant gamble destined for failure in a typical winter.

Cold Hardiness

• Low: No frost mechanism
• Chilling: Below 4°C damage

Winter Protection

• Marginal: Wraps, cloths (10a)
• Cold zones: Indoor/container
• High effort: Often fails

Hardiness Zone

• Strict: 10b-11 in-ground
• 10b risk: Cold winters

Winter Protection Systems and Materials

• Viable: Greenhouse/indoor
• Outdoors below 10a: Failure likely
• Container: Only option

Establishment and Maintenance in Landscapes

Planting Techniques for Success

Site: Full sun, wind-sheltered

• Drain soil amend
• Wide shallow hole
• Trunk base above soil
• Water/mulch

Long-term Maintenance Schedules

Seasonal: Fert 3-4x grow

• Deep irrigate
• Prune dead only
• No hurricane cut

Special:

• Spicata ornamental
• Genetic interest
• Collector focus