Introduction & History

Lovage is celery with the volume turned up to eleven — a towering, 2-metre perennial with hollow stems and leaves that deliver such an intense celery flavour that a single leaf in a pot of soup does what an entire head of celery only dreams of. Medieval monks grew it in every physic garden, and the name may derive from the Latin levisticum (Ligurian plant) or, more romantically, from 'love-ache' — a medieval English term reflecting its supposed aphrodisiac properties. Whatever the etymology, lovage is one of the most underrated herbs in the European kitchen.

History & Origin

Probably native to Iran and the eastern Mediterranean, though cultivated in Europe for so long its wild origin is uncertain. Standard in medieval monastery herb gardens from the 8th century (Charlemagne ordered it grown). Popular across central and eastern Europe: in Germany (Liebstöckel), Czech Republic (libeček), and Romania (leuștean), it remains a mainstream culinary herb. The plant never achieved the same popularity in English-speaking countries, which is their loss.

Botanical Description

Imposing, clump-forming perennial, 1.5–2 m tall when flowering, with thick, hollow, celery-scented stems. Leaves are pinnately compound with large, wedge-shaped, serrated leaflets — resembling a vastly oversized flat-leaf parsley. The foliage is dark, glossy green. Umbels of tiny greenish-yellow flowers appear at the top in midsummer. Seeds are ribbed, aromatic, and flavourful. The thick, fleshy taproot is also aromatic.

Planting & Cultivation

Sow seed in autumn (fresh seed germinates best after cold stratification) or in spring after 4 weeks in the fridge. Plant 1 cm deep in rich, moist, well-drained soil. Thin to 60–90 cm apart — the plant grows large. Full sun to part shade. Also available as nursery plants. One or two plants are sufficient for most households — lovage is very productive.

Cultivation Details

Feed generously with compost in spring — lovage is a vigorous grower that rewards fertility. Keep moist, especially during summer. Cut back flower stems to prolong leaf production (unless you want seeds). The hollow stems can be used as natural drinking straws for Bloody Marys — a cocktail garnish tradition. Divide every 4–5 years to maintain vigour. In autumn, the top growth dies back to the crown.

Climate & Hardiness

Very hardy — zones 3–8. Tolerates cold to −30 °C. Native to continental climates with cold winters. Prefers cool summers; less productive in prolonged heat. One of the best perennial herbs for cold-climate gardens. The thick taproot provides excellent winter survival.

Seasonal Care

Spring: new growth emerges vigorously — begin harvesting young leaves. Summer: cut flower stems for seed harvest or remove to extend leaf season. Mulch and water in dry spells. Autumn: top growth dies back — cut to ground level. Feed with compost. Winter: fully dormant.

Propagation

Seed: best sown fresh in autumn or cold-stratified for 4 weeks before spring sowing. Germination 14–21 days. Division of established clumps in spring or autumn — the fleshy root can be split with a sharp spade. Root cuttings also work. Self-sowing occurs if seeds are allowed to mature. One plant provides enough material for propagation.

Diseases & Pests

Leaf miners tunnel through leaves — cosmetic only. Celery leaf spot (Septoria) can affect foliage in wet conditions. Aphids on flower heads. Slugs eat young shoots. Otherwise robust. The strong flavour deters most pests and the vigorous growth outpaces most damage.

Culinary Uses

Anywhere you'd use celery, use lovage instead — but with 10× less. One leaf in a pot of soup provides the celery backbone. Chop young leaves into salads, potato dishes, stews, and egg recipes. In Germany, it's essential in Maggi-style seasoning (the commercial soup seasoning was formulated to mimic lovage). Use hollow stems as drinking straws for Bloody Marys. Seeds flavour bread, biscuits, and pickles. Root: grate sparingly into soups.

Medicinal & Aromatherapy

Traditional uses: digestive tonic, carminative, diuretic, and mild expectorant. The root is the most medicinally potent part — infused as a decoction for urinary complaints. Contains furanocoumarins (can cause photosensitivity — avoid sun exposure after handling in large quantities). Lovage tea was a standard stomach remedy in medieval Europe. Avoid during pregnancy and kidney disease. Safe in normal culinary quantities.

Container & Companion Growing

Container Growing

Possible but challenging — the deep taproot and tall growth demand a very large, deep container (50 L+). Use rich, deep potting mix. Full sun, keep moist. Production in containers is lower than in the ground. One of the few herbs better suited to the garden than to pots.

Companion Planting

Traditionally paired with other perennial herbs: horseradish, chives, and mint (all vigorous growers). The umbel flowers attract hoverflies and parasitic wasps. Use at the back of herb beds (it reaches 2 m). Keep away from delicate plants that it will shade. In vegetable gardens, it supposedly benefits beans and root vegetables.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Planting too many (one or two plants is enough — lovage is prolific). Using too much in cooking (the flavour is intense — start with a single leaf). Planting in a small garden where the 2-metre height dominates. Not cold-stratifying seed. Handling the root in quantity and then going into the sun (phototoxic furanocoumarins).

Harvesting & Preservation

Pick young leaves and stems at any time during the growing season. Chop and freeze in ice-cube trays for year-round use — this is the best preservation method. Drying works but the flavour diminishes. Seeds: harvest when they turn brown, dry thoroughly, and use as a celery-seed spice. The thick root can be peeled and used as a celery-flavoured vegetable, though it's tough and intensely flavoured.

Frequently Asked Questions

Seasonal Care Calendar