Murraya paniculata (Orange Jasmine)

Murraya paniculata (Orange Jasmine) - Complete Bonsai Guide

Murraya paniculata (Orange Jasmine)

Complete bonsai care guide for Orange Jasmine
🌿 Broadleaf Evergreen • Beginner • Modern Tradition
19 min read
Murraya paniculata bonsai illustration Artistic bonsai illustration of Murraya paniculata, a broadleaf evergreen species Broadleaf Evergreen • Rutaceae
🌿
Broadleaf Evergreen
🏠
Indoor
🎯
Beginner
🎨
Moyogi, Hokidachi, Shakan
✅
Wiring: Good
📐
Mame, Shohin, Chuhin
🚀
Modern Tradition
12345678910111213
USDA Zones 10–12
🌍
South and Southeast Asia
12345678910111213 Monthly Bonsai Care Calendar J F M A M J J A S O N D Watering Feeding Pruning Repotting

Introduction

Murraya paniculata Orange Jasmine Quick Profile Family: Rutaceae Group: Broadleaf Evergreen Origin: South and Southeast Asia Difficulty: Beginner Tradition: Modern Growth: moderate Foliage: evergreen 🌿 Bonsai Overview

Murraya paniculata, the orange jasmine or mock orange, is a tropical and subtropical broadleaf evergreen bonsai subject prized for its extraordinarily fragrant white flowers that perfume a room with a scent resembling jasmine and orange blossom combined, and its small, glossy, pinnate leaves that create elegant, fine-textured foliage. The species flowers repeatedly throughout the year in warm conditions, with the most intense flowering in summer and autumn. Small red berries follow the flowers. The bright bark on young branches, smooth pale grey trunk on mature specimens, and rapid growth rate make it one of the more rewarding tropical indoor bonsai species for fragrance.

Murraya paniculata (L.) Jack is an evergreen shrub to small tree to 7 m, native across southern Asia from India, Sri Lanka, and southern China through Southeast Asia to northern Australia. The leaves are imparipinnate (odd-pinnate), 5-15 cm long, with 3-9 leaflets each 2-5 cm long, ovate, glossy dark green with translucent oil glands visible when held to the light. Flowers are white, tubular-campanulate, 15-20 mm long, borne in terminal and axillary clusters of 1-8, and exceptionally fragrant. Fruits are small berries 1-2 cm long, orange-red to scarlet when ripe. Bark on mature trunks is smooth, pale grey to cream, sometimes slightly fissured with age. Growth is rapid in warm conditions.

Quick Facts
Common Name Orange Jasmine Family Rutaceae
Origin South and Southeast Asia Indoor/Outdoor Indoor
Bonsai Tradition Modern Japanese Name —
Difficulty Beginner Group Broadleaf Evergreen
Recommended Styles Moyogi (Informal Upright), Hokidachi (Broom), Shakan (Slanting), Multi Trunk
Size Categories Mame (5–15 cm), Shohin (15–20 cm), Chuhin (25–46 cm)

History & Tradition

Murraya paniculata has been cultivated in Chinese and Southeast Asian gardens for centuries for its outstanding fragrance. In the Lingnan school of Chinese penjing, it is one of the recommended indoor fragrant species. In the West, its adoption as a bonsai species followed the broader growth of tropical indoor bonsai from the 1980s onward. The extraordinary fragrance makes it uniquely effective for exhibition in enclosed spaces where the scent fills the room.

About Broadleaf Evergreen Bonsai

Broadleaf evergreen bonsai maintain year-round foliage while offering the leaf detail and trunk character of deciduous trees. Boxwood (Buxus) develops exceptionally dense foliage that can be refined into precise cloud-like pads. Olive trees (Olea europaea) bring Mediterranean character with their silver-green leaves and ancient-looking hollowed trunks. Ilex (holly) species offer dark glossy foliage and occasional berry displays. Privet (Ligustrum) grows vigorously and tolerates heavy styling, making it a productive training species. Camellia bonsai provide winter flowering combined with glossy, architectural foliage. These species generally tolerate shade better than conifers and deciduous trees, making them versatile additions to any collection.

Botanical Profile

Foliage Detail Apex Midrib Base Taxonomy Kingdom: Plantae Family: Rutaceae Genus: Murraya Species: paniculata Type: tropical shrub Foliage: evergreen Bark: grey, smooth Bonsai Characteristics Ramification: fine Leaf reduction: good Nebari: easy Deadwood: not_suitable Wire type: aluminum Bark scarring: moderate
Taxonomy & Characteristics
Family Rutaceae Genus Murraya
Species paniculata Plant Type tropical shrub
Origin South and Southeast Asia Growth Rate moderate
Foliage Type evergreen Bark Character grey, smooth
Autumn Color Height Range 10-60

Murraya paniculata (L.) Jack belongs to family Rutaceae, subfamily Aurantioideae — closely related to Citrus, Fortunella, and other citrus relatives. The characteristic oil glands in the leaflets, visible when backlit, are typical of the Rutaceae. Chromosome number 2n=18. The flowers contain methyl anthranilate and other volatile compounds responsible for the distinctive fragrance. The berries are mildly toxic. The species is sometimes confused with Murraya exotica, which some authorities treat as a variety or synonym of M. paniculata.

Common pests to watch for: scale insects, aphids, whiteflies

Bonsai Styles

Chokkan Moyogi Kengai Bunjin Fukinagashi Yose-ue
Recommended Styles for Murraya paniculata
Style Japanese Name
Moyogi Informal Upright
Hokidachi Broom
Shakan Slanting
Multi Trunk

Informal upright is natural, reflecting the species' irregular, spreading growth habit in tropical forests and gardens. Broom style produces attractive rounded canopy compositions. Slanting and semi-cascade styles work on material with natural trunk lean. The pinnate leaves create a distinctly different foliage texture from other indoor bonsai species and need to be incorporated into the composition design — the leaf structure reads best at medium to large scale. The multiple flowering periods throughout the year make flowering display a constant design consideration.

Style suitability: The styles listed above are particularly well-suited to the growth habit, branch structure, and natural character of Murraya paniculata. Select a style that complements the tree's existing trunk movement and branch placement.

Group Style Guide

Literati (bunjin) style suits boxwood and olive, emphasizing their naturally sparse, aged character. Informal upright is the most versatile style for broadleaf evergreens, accommodating various trunk shapes. Olive bonsai often develop hollowed trunks that suit dramatic driftwood and deadwood features. Root over rock works well with fig and privet species that develop strong surface roots. Broom style (hokidachi) is effective for dense-growing species like privet and boxwood. Multi-trunk and clump styles suit species that naturally produce basal shoots.

Trunk & Nebari

Trunk & Nebari Jin Shari Cross-Section Annual growth rings Taper Guide Ideal trunk taper: 1:6 ratio base width to height. Nebari: easy Deadwood: not_suitable Bark: grey, smooth
Trunk Characteristics
Nebari Development easy Deadwood Suitability not_suitable
Bark Scarring Risk moderate Bark Character grey, smooth

M. paniculata develops surface roots readily in warm conditions. Trunk thickening is faster than most tropical bonsai species given the species' vigor. Smooth pale grey bark develops on trunks over 3 cm diameter and is an attractive feature. Ground-growing in tropical climates produces impressive trunk caliper within five to seven years. In container culture, nebari development through root-combing proceeds at a moderate pace.

Deadwood Techniques

Deadwood on M. paniculata is possible but uncommon — the soft wood decays quickly and requires regular treatment. Jin on branch stubs can add age character. The smooth pale bark of the living trunk is visually attractive and should not be sacrificed for deadwood features that will require intensive maintenance.

Bark scarring risk: moderate — Take extra care when wiring Murraya paniculata. Use raffia or protective wrapping on thick bends, and check wires frequently to prevent them cutting into the bark.

Wiring & Shaping

Wiring Technique 45° spacing Wiring Tips Wire type: aluminum Suitability: good Bark scarring risk: moderate • Wire at 45° angle to branch • Wire thickness = 1/3 branch diameter • Remove before wire bites into bark • Use raffia protection on thick bends
Wiring suitability: good • Wire type: aluminum (1.5–4 mm aluminum)

Wire with aluminum during the growing season. The relatively soft, pliable wood bends readily with gentle technique. The pinnate leaf makes navigating wire through the canopy more challenging than with simple-leaved species — be patient and methodical. Check wires every four to six weeks in warm growing conditions. The rapid growth makes wire bite a constant risk — prefer clip-and-grow for maintaining mature compositions.

Wiring Reference for Murraya paniculata
Wire Type Bark Scarring Risk Best Season
Aluminum Lower (softer wire) Late autumn / early spring
Annealed copper Higher (holds shape better) Late autumn / early spring
Wire removal timing: Check wired branches every 2–4 weeks during the growing season. Remove wire before it begins to bite into the bark. On fast-growing species like Murraya paniculata, wire marks can become permanent scars within a single growing season.

🌍 Distribution Map

Native origin: South and Southeast Asia

Native Origin
Range Boundary

Pruning & Pinching

Pruning Guide Before After Pruning Principles • Maintenance prune during growing season • Structural prune during dormancy • Cut to a bud facing the desired direction • Seal large cuts with wound paste • Remove crossing and downward branches • Balance vigor between strong and weak areas • Ramification: fine
Pruning Characteristics
Ramification Quality fine Leaf/Needle Reduction good

Pinch or clip back new growth to two to three leaflets throughout the growing season. M. paniculata back-buds reliably from old wood in warm conditions. Avoid pinching when the tree is actively flowering — allow flower clusters to develop and remove only after the flowers fade. Structural pruning can be performed at any season in a stable warm indoor environment.

Expert Tips: The fragrance is strongest and most enjoyable at room temperature (20-25°C) — avoid displaying in cool conditions where the volatile oils are less active. To maximize flowering frequency, provide the highest available light and maintain temperature above 22°C year-round — flowers are triggered by both light intensity and warmth. Allow each flower cluster to develop fully and enjoy the fragrance before pruning back — the aesthetic and sensory experience of M. paniculata flowering is its primary value.

Watering

Watering & Drainage Mesh Drainage Substrate Moss Watering Rules • Water thoroughly until it drains from holes • Water when soil surface begins to dry • Never let bonsai sit in standing water • Adjust frequency for season and weather • Use a fine-nozzle watering can • Morning watering is preferred • Rainwater or dechlorinated water is best
Indoor/Outdoor classification: Indoor — this affects watering frequency, as outdoor bonsai dry out faster in sun and wind.

Water thoroughly when the top centimeter of substrate dries. M. paniculata requires consistent moisture but is less sensitive to brief dry periods than Carmona. The pinnate leaves transpire actively in warm, bright conditions — check moisture daily in summer. Foliage misting benefits the tree in dry indoor conditions. Hard alkaline water is tolerated better than by I. crenata.

Overwatering vs. underwatering: Yellow leaves and soft, dark roots indicate overwatering and root rot. Crisp, dry leaves and lightweight soil indicate underwatering. Both conditions stress the tree — consistent, attentive watering is the foundation of successful bonsai care.

Soil & Repotting

Soil & Repotting Drainage mesh Lava rock Akadama mix Sphagnum moss Substrate Details Mix: Tropical Mix (Akadama/Bark/Perlite) Repot every 2 years Root pruning: aggressive • Use particle sizes 2–6 mm • Never use garden soil in bonsai • Repot in spring before bud break • Secure tree with wire through drain holes
Substrate & Repotting Guide
Substrate Type Tropical Mix (Akadama/Bark/Perlite)
Repotting Frequency Every 2 years
Root Pruning Tolerance aggressive

Repot every two to three years in late spring in warm stable conditions. A free-draining mix of 60% akadama and 40% pumice is appropriate. Root pruning of up to one-third is tolerated. After repotting, maintain warmth and humidity. The Rutaceae family roots are susceptible to cold stress during repotting — never repot when temperatures are below 18°C.

Group Soil Recipes

Broadleaf evergreen substrate balances moisture retention with drainage: 50% akadama, 25% pumice, 15% lava rock, 10% composted bark. Olive bonsai prefer very fast-draining, mineral-rich substrate with extra pumice and minimal organic matter. Boxwood tolerates standard mixes. Privet and holly are undemanding regarding soil composition. Repot every 2–3 years in spring. Camellia prefers acidic substrate similar to azalea, using kanuma instead of akadama. Mediterranean species like olive and myrtle benefit from a limestone chip addition for calcium.

Repotting timing: Repot Murraya paniculata in early spring just before buds begin to swell. Never repot during extreme heat or cold. Secure the tree in its new pot using wire through the drainage holes to prevent movement while new roots establish.

Fertilizing

Seasonal Fertilizing Schedule for Murraya paniculata
Season NPK Ratio Frequency Notes
Spring 10-10-10 Every 2 weeks Support new growth
Summer 10-10-10 Every 2 weeks Sustain vigor
Autumn 0-10-10 Every 3–4 weeks Harden off for winter
Winter None — No feeding during dormancy

Feed with balanced fertilizer from spring through early autumn every two to three weeks. A slight phosphorus emphasis supports the continuous flowering habit. Avoid excessive nitrogen which promotes vegetative growth at the expense of flowering. Monthly feeding in winter if the tree is kept warm and continues to grow. Withhold feeding for four weeks after repotting.

Flushing salts: Water thoroughly several times in succession once per month during the growing season to flush accumulated fertilizer salts from the substrate. Salt buildup damages fine feeder roots and impairs water uptake.

Light & Placement

Classification: Indoor bonsai — can be grown indoors in a bright location near a south-facing window.

Maximum available indoor light — south-facing window or supplemental grow lighting at 5000+ lux for eight to ten hours. Insufficient light suppresses flowering, which is the primary ornamental feature. Move outdoors in summer once temperatures are above 18°C consistently. Minimum temperature 15°C; optimal 22-32°C. The species is cold-sensitive and suffers leaf drop and dieback below 10°C.

Seasonal Placement Guide

Spring: New growth flushes; begin feeding with balanced fertilizer; prune to maintain shape as new growth extends. Summer: Regular watering; olive and Mediterranean species tolerate heat and some drought; protect boxwood from sunburn. Autumn: Reduce feeding; camellia buds swell for winter bloom; prepare cold-sensitive species for winter protection. Winter: Protect subtropical species from frost; olive trees need cool but frost-free conditions; camellia blooms in late winter. Boxwood and holly tolerate moderate cold.

Seasonal Care

Spring Summer Autumn Winter
Seasonal Care Calendar for Murraya paniculata
Season Watering Feeding Key Tasks
Spring Increasing Resume / increase Repotting, structural pruning, wiring
Summer Maximum Regular biweekly Maintenance pruning, pinching, pest watch
Autumn Decreasing Reduce / stop Wiring, structural work, winter preparation
Winter Minimal None (dormancy) Protect roots, plan next season

Spring: Increase feeding, move outdoors as temperatures warm. Summer: Maximum light and warmth, enjoy the most intense flowering period, regular pinching between flower flushes. Autumn: Return indoors before temperatures fall below 15°C, continue feeding. Winter: Bright window or grow lights, maintain warmth, enjoy continued flower production.

Group Seasonal Guide

Spring: New growth flushes; begin feeding with balanced fertilizer; prune to maintain shape as new growth extends. Summer: Regular watering; olive and Mediterranean species tolerate heat and some drought; protect boxwood from sunburn. Autumn: Reduce feeding; camellia buds swell for winter bloom; prepare cold-sensitive species for winter protection. Winter: Protect subtropical species from frost; olive trees need cool but frost-free conditions; camellia blooms in late winter. Boxwood and holly tolerate moderate cold.

Pests & Diseases

Pest & Disease Watch Common Pests • Spider mites: stippled, bronzed foliage • Scale insects: brown bumps on stems • Aphids: clustered on new growth • Fungal disease: spots, dieback Prevention: • Good air circulation • Proper watering, avoid waterlogging
Common pests for Murraya paniculata: scale insects, aphids, whiteflies

Spider mites in dry indoor conditions — regular misting reduces infestations. Citrus mealybugs (given the Rutaceae relationship) can colonize leaf axils and stem crotches — treat with imidacloprid soil drench or rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab. Scale insects. Sooty mold developing on honeydew from sap-sucking pests. Root rot from overwatering. The species generally has good pest resistance compared to Carmona.

Group Pest Guide

Olive moth larvae mine leaves and bore into fruit; apply appropriate insecticide. Boxwood blight causes dark leaf spots and rapid defoliation; fungicide treatment and removal of affected growth is essential. Boxwood leafminer creates blistered leaves; treat with systemic insecticide in spring. Scale insects affect most broadleaf evergreens; treat with horticultural oil. Holly leaf miner creates serpentine trails in leaves; systemic insecticide in spring is effective. Sooty mold from honeydew-producing pests is common; treat the underlying pest infestation.

IPM Quick Reference
Pest/Disease Identification Treatment
Scale Insects Brown or white bumps on stems/branches Horticultural oil, systemic insecticide, manual removal
Aphids Clusters on new growth, sticky honeydew Insecticidal soap, water spray, ladybugs
Whiteflies Check foliage and stems Consult specialist resources

Propagation

From Seed 3–5 years to training size From Cutting Roots in 4–12 weeks Air Layering Instant thick trunk in 8–12 weeks
Propagation methods for Murraya paniculata: Cuttings, Air Layering, Seeds

Semi-hardwood cuttings in summer root readily at 25-28°C with IBA hormone and humidity. Rooting takes four to eight weeks. Air layering in late spring on branches 1-2 cm diameter is highly reliable. Seed germinates in 2-4 weeks at tropical temperatures but seedlings take many years to develop useful trunk character. Cutting-propagated plants from selected small-leaved bonsai specimens maintain parent characteristics.

Group Propagation Guide

Olive propagates from semi-hardwood cuttings or by salvaging ancient olive wood with some living cambium. Boxwood cuttings root readily in summer within 6–8 weeks. Privet is extremely easy from cuttings taken at almost any time during the growing season. Holly propagates from semi-hardwood cuttings under mist; berried varieties require both male and female plants. Camellia is typically grafted for named cultivars or propagated from semi-hardwood cuttings in summer. Mediterranean species like myrtle root easily from cuttings.

Propagation Methods Comparison
Method Timeline Notes
Cuttings Variable Consult species-specific guides
Air Layering 8–12 weeks Instant thick trunk; advanced
Seeds Variable Consult species-specific guides

Size Classification

Mame 15+ cm Shohin 20+ cm Chuhin 46+ cm Omono 76+ cm
Mame (5–15 cm)Shohin (15–20 cm)Chuhin (25–46 cm)Omono (46–76 cm)

Most effective at medium scale (35-60 cm) where the pinnate leaf structure reads properly in the composition. Shohin M. paniculata (under 25 cm) is achievable but the compound leaf scale is challenging. Large specimens over 60 cm develop impressive smooth pale-grey trunk character that becomes a primary visual feature.

Japanese Bonsai Size Classification
Keshitsubo (3–8 cm)
Shito (5–10 cm)
Mame (5–15 cm) ✅
Shohin (15–20 cm) ✅
Komono (15–25 cm)
Chuhin (25–46 cm) ✅
Omono (46–76 cm) ✅
Dai (76–122 cm)
Imperial (122+ cm)

Varieties & Cultivars

Murraya paniculata 'Min-a-Min' is a compact selection with smaller leaflets suited to smaller-scale bonsai. The closely related Murraya exotica is sometimes offered separately and has very similar bonsai characteristics. Murraya koenigii (curry leaf tree) is a related but distinctly different culinary species occasionally grown as bonsai for the aromatic leaves.

Group Varieties

Buxus harlandii (Harland boxwood) is the premier bonsai boxwood with naturally small leaves. Olea europaea (olive) develops ancient-looking trunks and tolerates heavy styling. Ligustrum (privet) grows vigorously with small leaves. Ilex (holly) species offer dark glossy foliage and occasional berries; I. crenata has tiny leaves. Myrtus communis (common myrtle) has fragrant foliage and white flowers. Camellia sasanqua is more suited to bonsai than C. japonica due to smaller flowers and leaves. Serissa foetida (snow rose) has tiny leaves and flowers but is temperamental.

Buying Guide & Display

Purchase from specialist tropical bonsai nurseries or import dealers who can confirm the tree has been maintained in indoor conditions suited to temperate climate culture. Inspect for mealybug infestation in leaf axils — this is common on nursery stock. The most impressive specimens have smooth pale grey trunks over 3 cm diameter with low branching and a history of multiple flowering cycles visible in the development of the canopy.

Buying Checklist for Murraya paniculata
Check What to Look For
Trunk Good taper, interesting movement, no reverse taper at graft union
Nebari Even radial root spread, no circling or crossing roots
Roots Healthy white root tips visible, no root rot smell
Branches Well-placed primary branches, no large scars or stubs
Health Vibrant foliage color, no pests, firm bark, strong buds

Troubleshooting

Failure to flower in an established tree indicates insufficient light — increase to maximum available brightness and consider supplemental grow lighting. Leaf drop and shoot dieback indicate cold exposure — restore warmth immediately. Mealybug infestation (white cottony masses in leaf axils) requires treatment with systemic insecticide; manual removal with alcohol swabs for small infestations. Yellow leaves suggest overwatering and root stress — check drainage immediately.

Common Problems

Olive leaves dropping: Cold stress or overwatering. Olive is Mediterranean; provide cool, dry winter conditions.
Boxwood leaves turning brown: Boxwood blight or winter burn. Inspect for black leaf spots; protect from cold, drying winds.
Privet growing too vigorously: Normal for privet. Frequent pinching and pruning are essential to maintain bonsai proportions.
Holly losing lower leaves: Insufficient light reaching lower branches. Thin upper canopy; maintain good branch structure.

Display & Exhibition

M. paniculata is most powerfully displayed at indoor exhibitions where the fragrance fills the exhibition space — the scent alone draws visitors to the tree before the visual elements register. Position near the entrance or in an enclosed space where the fragrance concentrates. A glazed cream or pale ivory pot complements the pale grey trunk and white flowers. The exhibition timing should coincide with active flowering for maximum effect.

Group Display Guide

Broadleaf evergreen bonsai provide year-round display options. Olive bonsai are displayed to emphasize their ancient, gnarled trunks and silver-green foliage. Boxwood is showcased for its dense, refined pad structure. A Mediterranean-themed display with stone accents suits olive and myrtle. Camellia is displayed during its winter bloom season, often paired with a seasonal scroll. Glazed pots in subtle greens or blues complement the evergreen foliage. The display should emphasize the natural character of the species.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I water my Orange Jasmine bonsai?

Water your Orange Jasmine bonsai when the top layer of soil begins to dry. During summer this may be daily or even twice daily for outdoor trees; in winter, reduce frequency significantly. Always water thoroughly until water runs from the drainage holes, then allow the soil to partially dry before the next watering.

Can I keep Orange Jasmine bonsai indoors?

Yes, Orange Jasmine can be grown indoors in a bright location near a south-facing window. Supplement with grow lights in winter if needed.

What bonsai styles suit Orange Jasmine?

Orange Jasmine is particularly well-suited to Moyogi, Hokidachi, Shakan. Choose a style that complements the existing trunk movement and natural growth habit of your individual tree.

When should I repot my Orange Jasmine bonsai?

Repot Orange Jasmine every 2 years in early spring, just before the buds begin to swell. Signs that repotting is needed include water sitting on the surface without soaking in, roots circling inside the pot, or reduced vigor despite proper care.

How do I wire Orange Jasmine bonsai?

Use aluminum wire for Orange Jasmine. Apply wire at a 45-degree angle, with wire thickness approximately one-third of the branch diameter. Wire during the dormant season when possible, and check wires every 2–4 weeks during the growing season to prevent them cutting into the bark.

Is Orange Jasmine good for beginners?

Yes, Orange Jasmine is an excellent choice for beginners. It is forgiving of occasional care mistakes and responds well to basic bonsai techniques.

What soil mix should I use for Orange Jasmine?

Use Tropical Mix (Akadama/Bark/Perlite) for Orange Jasmine. The key principle is excellent drainage combined with adequate moisture retention. Never use standard garden soil or purely organic potting mix for bonsai, as these compact over time and suffocate roots.

How do I promote ramification on Orange Jasmine?

Ramification on Orange Jasmine is rated as fine. Promote finer branching through repeated cycles of growing and cutting back. Allow shoots to extend 4–6 nodes, then prune back to 1–2 nodes. Over multiple growing seasons, this creates increasingly dense and refined branch structure.

When is the best time to prune Orange Jasmine?

Perform structural pruning on Orange Jasmine during the dormant season (late autumn to late winter) when the tree's energy reserves are in the roots. Maintenance pruning and pinching of new growth can be done throughout the growing season to maintain shape and promote density.

How cold-hardy is Orange Jasmine?

Orange Jasmine should be protected from temperatures below 10°C. Hardy in USDA zones 10-12. Protect container roots by placing in an unheated garage, cold frame, or burying the pot in ground soil during extreme cold.

Quick Reference Summary

Scientific Name Murraya paniculata
Common Name Orange Jasmine
Family Rutaceae
Origin South and Southeast Asia
Group Broadleaf Evergreen
Indoor/Outdoor Indoor
Difficulty Beginner
Bonsai Tradition Modern
Wiring Suitability good
Wire Type aluminum
Ramification fine
Leaf/Needle Reduction good
Nebari Development easy
Deadwood Suitability not_suitable
Substrate Tropical Mix (Akadama/Bark/Perlite)
Repotting Frequency Every 2 years
USDA Zones 10-12
Regresar al blog